3 Days in Seoul

Where to stay: Myeongdong (central, shops and street food, direct airport buses), Jongno/Insadong (walking distance to the palaces and Bukchon), Hongdae (young and lively, on the AREX airport line) or Gangnam (modern, but further from the old town). Save your hotel's address in Korean.

Visitors wearing hanbok get free entry to the palaces — rental shops cluster near the gates. The National Folk Museum of Korea is inside the palace grounds. Each palace closes one day a week, and not all on the same day, so check before you go.

Bukchon's hanok are family homes: keep your voice down and don't open gates. Part of the village restricts tourist access in the evening and early morning — visit during the day.

The Secret Garden can only be seen on a guided tour with limited places — book ahead.

Yeouido Hangang Park is another popular spot. In the warmer months, the Moonlight Rainbow Fountain on Banpo Bridge puts on evening light-and-water shows — check the current schedule.

Ride the Namsan cable car or walk up the forested trails; the old city wall runs along the ridge.

Myeongdong's street-food stalls are busiest from late afternoon.

Alternative for Day 3 — DMZ tour: only possible on an organised tour (half or full day from central Seoul), usually with Imjingak Park, an infiltration tunnel and a border observatory. Bring your passport and check what your tour includes; areas such as the Joint Security Area have been closed to tours for long periods.