3 Days in Chiang Mai

Where to stay: the Old City (walking distance to the temples), Nimman (cafés and nightlife, closer to Doi Suthep), the riverside/Night Bazaar area (larger hotels on the Ping River) or Santitham (quieter, local). Cover shoulders and knees at temples and remove your shoes before entering buildings.

Many temples offer “monk chats”, informal conversations where novice monks practise English. Women should avoid touching monks.

By temple tradition, women aren't permitted inside the silver ordination hall itself, though everyone can explore the grounds.

Saturday: Wua Lai Walking Street, right outside Wat Sri Suphan. Sunday: Sunday Walking Street on Ratchadamnoen Road from Tha Phae Gate. Other days: the Night Bazaar on Chang Khlan Road. Try khao soi and sai ua (northern sausage).

Climb the naga staircase of around 300 steps or take the funicular. Red songthaews go up from near Chiang Mai University and the zoo, or book a Grab. Go early for cooler air and fewer people.

Bhubing Palace is closed when the royal family is in residence — check before you go, and dress modestly.

Choose a sanctuary that doesn't offer riding, shows or painting, where visits focus on watching, feeding and walking with the elephants. Most tours include hotel pickup.

Alternatives for Day 3 — Option B: a Thai cooking class, usually starting with a market tour (great on a rainy or smoky day). Option C: a full day at Doi Inthanon National Park — Thailand's highest mountain, the twin royal chedis and Wachirathan Waterfall. Bring a layer; it can be cold at the top.