2 Weeks in Japan

Arrive at Haneda or Narita and keep the first evening easy in Shinjuku.

Traditional Tokyo.

Modern Tokyo.

Food and art. (Kamakura or Nikko make a good day trip instead — see the 5 Days in Tokyo itinerary.)

Before you leave Tokyo, arrange luggage forwarding: send your big case ahead to Kyoto and travel to Hakone with just an overnight bag.

Hakone: Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku, or shinkansen to Odawara. The classic loop combines a mountain railway, a cable car, a ropeway over Owakudani and a sightseeing boat across Lake Ashi.

Onsen etiquette: wash thoroughly before entering, keep your small towel out of the water and check the inn's tattoo policy in advance.

Shinkansen Odawara → Kyoto.

Climb past the first viewpoint on Mount Inari to escape the crowds.

In Gion, respect local rules: some private lanes are closed to tourists, and never photograph geiko or maiko without permission.

Nara is under an hour from Kyoto by JR or Kintetsu train; it was Japan's capital in the 8th century.

Sanyo shinkansen from Kyoto; stop at Himeji (castle is a short walk from the station) and leave your bags in a station locker.

Continue to Hiroshima in the afternoon.

The Peace Memorial Museum tells the story of 6 August 1945 and its aftermath. It's a moving, sobering visit; allow plenty of time.

Train to Miyajimaguchi and the short ferry to Itsukushima (the JR ferry is covered by the JR Pass). The island charges a small visitor tax. Check the tide table: at low tide you can walk out to the torii.

Shinkansen to Shin-Osaka, then head into the city.

Visit Osaka Castle or graze through Kuromon Market.

Take the JR Haruka or Nankai Rapi:t train to Kansai International Airport (KIX), allowing plenty of time.